The ANNUAL SURF ART COLUMN....

It always seems like there's a hurricane looming whenever I run my annual Surf Art Column. Maybe I should have several "Art Columns" throughout the summer? Not that I really think my art columns have anything to do with the activity in the Tropics.

Still, it couldn't hurt. And is it me, or are they playing this storm IRENE to be the end of the world? I mean...I know it's a powerful storm and all, but it just seems like it's taking on a life of it's own. I believe there will be high winds. I believe there will be surf. And I'm sure there will be damage and even a death or two. But good lord is it really as bad as they are warning us?

And how many times do we have to watch some fool reporter stand out in the rain and wind, and report on the same rain and wind? What? We can't tell how windy and rainy it is, unless some dork is standing out there with a microphone, holding on for dear life? Are you kidding me? Look if they want to entertain us, they should have some skinny ass reporter who weighs under 90 lbs out there. Let him or her fly around a little. Put 'em baggy clothes and cut them loose. Now that I would watch.

Am I right people? Come on. It's always the same. Hurricanes. Snow storms.

They stand out there and yell back into the mic about how bad it is. No shit. We can see it. We don't need you standing out there screaming into the mic, while the poor cameraman is trying to get the shot without killing the camera. You know damn well some producer is seeing the clips and saying "You need to get right in the path of a big gust. I want our viewers to see you crying! Now get your ass out there!"

I believe one day we will witness some reporter getting hit in the head by a 2 x 4 or something else that weighs a ton, and get killed instantly on camera. Then what? What would they cut to? A commercial? Would the cameraman pick up the mic and look back into the camera and say "Back to you John..."

I tell you it's coming. It's just a matter of time. They just better not have some ridiculous memorial service for the poor slob. That would be cruel. Unless of course, it was during a wild storm. Then that would be fitting. Amen.

OK so it's my annual SURF ART Column. I have to admit. I love surf art.

In fact, my whole house is adorned with it. Thank God my wife likes it too. Can you imagine if she didn't? Man, that would be hard. I think MOST surfers have surf art some where in their home. If you don't, there's a problem there. I'm not saying that there's something wrong, OK I am saying that. If you are a surfer and there is NO surf art, or surf photography, hanging somewhere in your home, there's a problem there. Seriously. You have a Big problem.

Look, we're surfers. We love surfing. And we love art.

They go hand in hand. Surfing and art. Hell, I've always said that surfing is an Art Form. That's one of the reasons I never leaned towards art contests, or surf contests for that matter (unless of course it's a Goof and Good Time Like The Molly) but for the most part? I find it hard to judge art. And this is from a former art student, who won many art contests. None of which I wanted any part of. It was at the Art College I attended ...The ART INSTITUE of BOSTON. I loved the school, but despised the art contests. You cannot judge art. Well you can, but who's to say which piece of art is better than the next? Who?

Certainly not me. Though, I have to admit, I've seen some suspect art pieces in my time. Some of the pieces of "so called art," leave much to the imagination. In other words, I'm not a fan of all art. Just certain types and mediums. I do however, love all surf art. Because I know of which the passion has spawned from. The love of surfing and the connection to the ocean. Now I am not going to sit here and tell you that you HAVE to be a surfer to be a surf artist. No sir, I will not say that. Though, most really good surf artists, are surfers. Let's face it. We are a special breed.

What we see up close and personal, is some pretty amazing visuals.

That has to have an affect on the creative section of our lump of gray matter. I know personally, that I am still, after all this time (and I say this after recently completing a year surf marathon), that I will NEVER EVER get tired of looking down the line, and into an open barrel. That sight still gets to me. It stops me dead in my tracks. I have literally stopped paddling, to get that one last look, time after time. And yes I get worked pretty good because of it. But that image gets embedded in my brain.
Layer after layer. Wave after wave. Year after year.

So when I get that creative urge to paint, or draw a wave...it's already there. In my vault of wave images, that I have stored in my head. You all have them. And you also have the ability to create art. I know some of you are shaking your head, but It's true. Anyone can create art. And you surfers? Tell me you have never doodled a wave?
Huh? I know you have. We all have. I love doodling waves. Guess what? That's surf art. One of my oldest and closest friends, is a FULL BIRD Colonel in the Army. He's also a surfer. And a damn good one at that.

Guess what he sent me for this column? A doodle. A damn doodle. Of a wave.

And I love it. I can relate to that doodle. You all can. If you doodle waves, you are a surf artist. Don't you just feel so good about yourself now? Look, I'm not saying you are going to be the next Rick Griffin, but I am saying, that you have the ability to take that doodle to the next step. You can do it. Step out of the box and let the creativity flow. You will be surprised at what comes out of you. Do it. Create Art.

And speaking of creating art. I have a plain white wall right outside my studio. I've looked at that wall for years and wondered, what it would look like if I painted a wave on it? Here take a look. The first photo is how it looks now.



My studio is on the right, under the awning.



The second image is a potential wave painting. How good would it be to walk by this every day? A nice head high wave, just peeling down the line and out into the lower driveway...what do you think? I am lobbying my wife to allow me to do this. I mean having surf art in the house is one thing, having surf art outside? I may be pushing it. Still, I'm curious as to where you all stand on this minor dilemma.

Just so you all know, I am fine either way.

Thank you to ALL the many talented Surf Artists who contributed to this annual column. I love ALL your work and encourage you all to keep creating.

I guess you could say, that Surf Art adheres to this mantra as well, and that my friends is... "Surfing Heals All Wounds..."